I'm writing from Parmesan cheese and balsamic vinegar territory where I've come to do a three-week Italian immersion programme at the home of Luisa Golino (see www.italianhomestay.com if you're interested). Reggio-Emilia is a perfect place to study because it's not touristy, so you never hear English or French spoken in the streets. I have several hours of lessons a day, which wears my brain down to threads; then, to recover, I take long walks in the park, Caprette, along the river, which has a winding leafy path that I love (helps work off the pasta, too!). Sometimes, I go into the city centre, too, dodging the swarms of cyclists, a trademark of this city since almost no cars are allowed inside the periphery. (Luisa said the other day, "My God, you'd think we were in China!") There is a great trade in bicycle baskets here, apparently, because everybody has them (on the backs of their bikes and front): big, beautiful, bountiful baskets, perfect for market shopping à bicyclette. I am definitely bringing one home.

Emilia-Romagna is great for food, too. I've already been to a dairy to buy Parmigiano-Reggiano (they were making the cheese in vats), to a special salumeria to buy lard and cured meats, and to a friend of Luisa's, also called Luisa, for a lesson in making tagliatelle and another kind of pasta (deep-fried) called "gnocco fritto". The gnocchi fritti puff up, so that they are hollow inside and crisp outside, and you eat them like bread with prosciutto, lard, cheese, etc. on top. Delicious! (Although, definitely not "lite" … nor was the donkey stew I got served the night before, but that's another story...)
Next week, Luisa and I are transferring to her house in Venice for a change of scenery. I am sure I'll have more to tell, so will write again soon! Hope all is well wherever you are.

À bientôt,